Hi, my name is Rumana from The Little Pomegranate. If anyone watched me on the last season of The Great British Sewing Bee, you'd know that stretch fabric was not my friend. I'd only ever sewn with it once before going on the show and had never touched an overlocker before! Needless to say, it didn't go well and I was certain I would be scarred for life. How funny that now stretch fabrics are now my favourite to sew! I love how comfy, forgiving and easy to fit they are.
I'm constantly on the hunt for new shops with unique/cute prints. It was definitely love at first sight when I got asked to look around Pin & Sew. The collection is gorgeous! But you might have noticed that I'm a sucker for plain block colours so I went with this jewel green shade to recreate my tried-and-tested, love-to-bits sewing pattern: the Kielo wrap dress. I've been itching to make a Kielo wrap dress ever since I found out that Named Clothing had a free long sleeve add-on. The original is a beauty but ever since I started sewing clothes for myself, I shy away from sleeveless patterns.
Fabric notes: I used this green jersey. It's a gorgeous jewel shade of green and is surprisingly thick, holding it's shape really well- which means this dress turned out a little less drapey than normal. Like some coloured jersey fabrics do, it does pick up pressure marks so a gentle hand is needed (on the upside it made marking out darts a doddle!) Also on an aside- I LOVE the packaging! It's a super sturdy brown paper bag with NO plastic! Ahhhh... A fabric store after my own heart. I've actually kept the bag to store other bits and bobs in!
Sizing and fit: I went with the UK size 10. Being on the petite size (5'2"), I had to shorten the pattern. Whilst there are waist and hip lines marked on the pattern, there aren't any 'lengthen/shorten' lines. So I ended up creating my own lines below the 'wings' and the from around the hip area.
I also shortened the bust dart by around 2-3cm. So I would double check where these lay on you with a tissue fitting if you're not planning a toile. Overall it's a forgiving shape so it fits really well.
Construction and instructions: The construction is actually really simple which is why I think it's a good beginners pattern for anyone who's just got their head around stretch fabric. There are bust darts and back darts to add a bit of shape, but otherwise it comes together simply but looks really complicated and sophisticated! I've also omitted the back darts before and haven't really had any issues with that. The only thing I would suggest is to use a walking foot if you have one.
The only gripe I have with this pattern is the instructions for the neckline. They offer two options- bias tape facing or just simply doing a double fold. I'm not a big fan of either finish- if I want a more formal finish I would go for a wider facing but for these casual dresses I went for a normal stretch neckband and top stitched this in place. I don't think the double fold neckband would give as nice of a finish (unless you were to make it in a fine fabric like the sample on the website which is made from silk chiffon) but will happily be corrected!
Overall, I love this pattern and now have a total of 4 in my wardrobe. I've made three at a maxi length, one midi length and love both options. The centre back split makes it easy to walk in either length. The shape is unusual but so simple to put together. I love how different it can look from fabric to fabric. I can dress it up or just throw it on for a run to the shops, boots, heels or flats.
It's totally effortless and I could live in it. It's been such a versatile part of my wardrobe for the past year - growing with me as I went from 1st trimester of pregnancy to 3rd and now post-partum! Honestly I could quite happily have a whole wardrobe of Kielos!