PIN & SEW TUTORIAL : How to add an applique and cuffs to a jersey top.

Hi it’s Sue @dogsinstitches_and_me blogging about how to add some fun to solid colour jersey memades by adding  fabulous cuffs and a memade applique.

I had decided I wanted to make a sweatshirt with a nod to the 70’s and have some fun with applique too. When I saw these fabulous black and gold cuffs on Aga’s Instagram stories I knew they would be perfect to use as big cuffs for the butterfly sleeves of I AM patterns Zebre sweatshirt. I also decided some plain white jersey would really show the cuffs and my applique off. With its’ subtle drape I also knew it would be perfect for my big sleeves!    

The cuffs are pre-folded and can be used double ( I used them singly) or for collars and waistbands too. I decided to use them unfolded to create the long cuffs I wanted for my design. This was easy as I just stitched the two short ends together and matched the stripes. I made the cuffs smaller than the pattern measurements to fit my wrist as they are wonderfully stretchy! I find the easiest way to hold them to the sleeve whilst I sew is to use wonder clips. I then sew on the inside of the cuff to avoid over stretching using a zig zag stitch and my walking foot and finish the edges on my overlocker, but you could just finish the edge with a zig zag stitch.

The white jersey drapes beautifully with the full sleeves, was easy to gather and then ends with these beautiful cuffs.

Working with stable quality jersey is important when adding an applique. Aga has some wonderful solid colours you could put together when creating your design.You will also need Vilene Bondaweb (an iron on transfer adhesive) and I used a walking foot and a narrow zig zag (width -2  length- 1)to attach mine to my sweatshirt. Always do a test applique trying different sewing machine feet and stitches as you would when using any fabrics or new techniques.

To make your applique decide on a motif (try google images or trace round something you like) and draw it onto the paper side of the Bondaweb. Cut roughly round your motif, then place the adhesive coated side down onto the wrong side of the jersey and dry iron for about 5 seconds. Next cut your motif out accurately and place it on your garment to decide where you want to iron it permanently. I appliqued my motif to the front before I stitched it to the back.

To attach your applique, peel off the backing paper and lay your motif coated side down in your chosen position. Use a hot dry iron and cover your motif with a pressing cloth ( I used mine slightly  damp) as you iron your motif onto your garment pressing down gently a few seconds at a time.

Leave to dry for a few minutes then using your preferred zig zag stitch and sewing machine foot carefully stitch around your applique making sure your stitch is mostly on the applique and just on the edge of your garment. Stitch slowly and pivot with the needle in the fabric around tricky bits!

I added a contrast ribbing for my hem again using wonder clips, but you could use some more fabulous cuffing or some funky stripy ribbing that Aga has. Remember do It your way and make it a fabulous ME MADE designed by you.

Have fun with Solid Colour jersey and Striped cuffs, I love mine!


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